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 by Lynn Ferrin Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 "If You're Going..." |
 Despite posted danders, hikers seek ou the waters of Hot Creek Geologic Site. The lava flow at Devils Postpile filled the valley to a depth of 400 feet. 
Occasionally our
low-priority train
is side-tracked
to let the freights
speed by. This
tourist train has
lowest priority-so,
we stop often in
deference to the
carriers of mining,
agriculture, and
commerce. After St.
Regis, we share
the Clark Fork
Valley with
Interstate 90.
The train rattles
over trestles,
rumbles in tunnels,
runs through
Alberton Gorge,
with frothing rapids.
It's a stunning
landscape of ranches,
fields, and towns
crouching at the
feet of great
mountain ranges.
Much of the
region is one of
tentative
residence-prefabs
and doublewides,
and even a few
camper shells set
up as domiciles.
Late in the
afternoon, we pull
onto a siding nearMissoula's old
depot and head
for the comforts
of a hotel.
Next morning,
we follow the
Clark Fork-and
I-90-for almost
70 miles, as far
as Garrison.
The ridge of
the Garnet Range
rises to the
north. Near
Gold Creek,
where gold was
discovered
in 1852, everyone
plunges toward
the starboard
windows. We get
a quick-pass
view of the marker
where the
"last spike" was
driven on the
NPRR in 1883,
completing the
line from St.
Paul to Portland.
At Garrison
we pick up
the Little
Blackfoot
River almost
to the Continental
Divide. The
train dives
through the Mullan
Tunnel and
crosses the Divide
over 5,902-foot
Mullan Pass.
Yesterday's dome
passengers were
a contemplative lot;
today I'm [Dome car]
trying a different dome,
and it's full of
chatterers, mostly
talking about trains,
remarking on the
passing "grain empties"
and how many axles
(54) we've got.
One gray gent
from Iowa tells
me he's spending
his retirement years
at the local
switching yard,
Watching the engines
come and go.
After lunch (cold
strawberry soup
with fresh nutmeg,
quiche with tomatoes
and artichokes,
peach pie) we spot
the twin spires of
Helena Cathedral and
the copper dome
of the capitol.
Closer to the track,
pickup trucks
nuzzle up to seedy bars.
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